Our journey from East Florida To the Chesapeake Bay
August 18-October 10, 2004

It could get tiresome at times, worrying about running aground on the shoal areas that often form in the ICW at the mouths of Atlantic inlets and saltwater creeks with running currents. We finally retracted some long buried geology knowledge from our brains and figured that out! We also found out that ridges can be formed right in front of bascule bridges. These “bridge ridges” are caused by a barge running aground making a bump on the bottom while waiting for an opening. There is a famous one just north of Charleston, SC, at Ben Sawyer Bridge. These are but a few of the many lessons we have learned from “Cruising 101”. This is what so many sailors call the cruisers first trip on the Intercoastal Waterway.

We especially remember this Ben Sawyer bridge, because it doesn’t open in a brisk breeze unless, of course, you are a government vessel. One brisk day heading north we got to enjoy the scenery and practice our technique of avoiding marshy shoals waiting for the bridge to open until the marina nearby let us stay at the fuel pier. Just after docking, we heard on the radio the government vessel slide right through. Oh well, it helps to have connections.

This was all during a September, 2004, high pressure system in the Atlantic that we were glad to see because it was holding south yet another hurricane, Jeanne, this time. We were quite tired of the ICW but with small craft warnings and only about 4 weeks sailing experience on Cyan by then, we decided to stay on the inside course rather than take the offshore route.

Just the month before we had avoided Hurricane Charley, August 13th, by only a few feet, it seemed. We were still docked in Palmetto, Florida, just north of where it hit near Ft Myers and Port Charlotte. We’d bought Cyan, our 4 year old Island Packet 380, from Island Yachting Centre there because this boat was especially well equipped for blue water sailing. It came with oversized Janmar engine, complete electronics, water maker, generator, dinghy, stern arch, roller furling main, AC, and even a washing machine. We named her "CYAN" for the color of deep aqua tropical water. We are surprised how many folks don't know that cyan is the name of a color. [It's the blue color right on a computer printer cartridge!]


Preparing to embark
after Charley

A sunset in the Keys

Anchoring in Biscayne Bay

Miami through
the dodger window

Our adventure leaving Florida began by mostly motoring through the Keys and all around Florida and on to Jacksonville, 2 weeks later, where we again tied down for 50 knot winds when Hurricane Frances blew to the west of us also changing course at the last minute. We still can hardly believe we were so fortunate to narrowly escape these storms when so many were hit in Florida during this particular season. But coming so close was just enough excitement for us. We did learn how to load up valuables, close off, tie down and remove sails and canvas quickly after doing it 3 different times that season.

I’d grown up in Jacksonville, Florida and was familiar with storms but not from the perspective of a live-aboard sailboat. Our goal was to keep heading north out of Florida as fast as we safely could. We did get to experience the offshore water for 2 days off the coast of Georgia until it got too rough with 5-7’ rolling seas and the wind was right in our faces, so we were under power. During these seas the transmission decided that it would take a short break as we were headed back into the shipping channel near Savannah so for just a few hectic minutes we had no propulsion while there were ships in sight approaching. We did gain adequate power again as we began to head for the sails. We actually didn’t get the transmission explanation until later. It seems, this can happen in an extreme chop due to the pump catching up after the fluid is tossed about. Ahhh, another valuable engine lesson.

Our favorite anchorage between these offshore journeys was on right near Sappelo Island, Georgia, in a narrow, but deep, marsh creek. We anchored there watching birds migrate and turtles surface at dusk, relaxing with wine and cheese, a bit closer to nature. These kinds of experiences just evened it all out. The exciting storm alert drills or equipment malfunctions are counterbalanced by the mellow sunsets or deer swimming across a wooded channel or the daily porpoise hitching a bow wave. We refuse to call the fluctuations in our journey experiences “highs and lows”. Anything that breaks down or alters our course is only another challenge for us. This is just an opportunity to gain knowledge that we will help us later.

One more “close call” broke any calm we might have been enjoying. While chugging away in North Carolina Hurricane Jeanne quickly blew by after the high pressure system lifted. We stayed on the boat in Dowry Creek at the wonderful Marina for 4 days. The wind was over 40 knots as the outskirts of that storm passed us to the south.

There was another big goal for us in heading north, in addition to avoiding hurricanes and the sales taxes in Florida. It was to get to Maryland in time to attend the Annapolis Boat Show. After all, we had a NEW BOAT and felt the need to spend lots of money on “boat stuff” and what a great place to go to do that!!!

We have relatives in Maryland just south of Annapolis to ferry us around shopping for provisions. Also, our son and his fiancé were flying east to visit and see the new boat. These plans were made before we knew about the “rule”. Next time we will know “not to make definite plans until after you are already at the location!”

Because of these plans and the storm delays we were motoring very long days north and North Carolina is a very long state! We decided to take the Dismal Swamp Route and were so glad we did…everyone should do it once. It’s interesting and historical… quiet and smooth. But it was so refreshing to especially enjoy the open area in the Chesapeake Bay when we finally arrived there and we actually got to see how this boat sailed for more than just an hour or two!!! We were surprised at how rough the bay can get but also how charming the anchorages and fishing villages are. We plan to return next year for several months.

We did make it to Annapolis and we did spend too much money at the Boat Show getting the latest, biggest, radar/chart plotter in color. The captain used to be a Navy pilot and seems to want to turn this boat into a jet cockpit with electronics! As far as I am concerned, that chart/radar thing ought to weigh the anchor and lower the dinghy automatically to make it worth the money!!! It must be a macho thing.


Lock on the Dismal Swamp

Chuck sails during
warm weather

A brisk day on the Bay

Chesapeake Lighthouse

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