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Approach to pass from NE
We included Thithia on our list of islands to visit because this is where Tai, the hairdresser in Suva,
is from and she arranged for her brother here to formally invite us. There was amazingly little info
about the port or any available anchoring so we were on our own.
Approaching the jetty: We took the dinghy to the SW side in the middle of the jetty and tied it to the rocks with the dinghy anchor behind and easily found places to climb up to the muddy road. |
At midnight our first night we were awakened in a thunderstorm by a huge spotlight shining around the
ports. The supply boat that comes every 2 weeks was looking for the harbor to anchor in to unload
passengers and crates. Good thing we didn’t risk it and anchor inside the harbor!!! He was 100’ away
but looked closer in the rain.
We visited the village the next day for sevusevu and were helped by very attentive young men who took us to the assistant in charge. Apparently the few weeks we were in Lau Group all the chiefs had gone to Suva for a grand meeting about Lau policies. We never met a real chief. We shared the kava grog and sevusevu ceremony with Apakuki in his home. His wife, Emma, fixed us lunch and later we returned for a roasted pig dinner and another sevusevu with grog in our honor. The last yacht there was 5 years ago. We got to ask lots of questions and get to know several villagers. If you are older in generation than the hosts you are considered honorary parents and respected as such. The meals were packed with mostly unflavored cassava along with a small amount of rice and meat. |
![]() Fulanga Traditional Bure House |
![]() Sam with Kava Bowl |
![]() Lovo oven |
We came into the reef by the Adavaci Passage on the west because we were coming from the SW and
it worked out fine. Only one beacon on the SE part of pass. Our Raymarine Navionics Gold chart
plotter was off by almost ˝ mile at this island after being so close on the rest of the Lau islands.
Approach Pt from sea WP: 17deg 13.616S 179deg 01.096W
We passed Vanuahaloa Island on starboard and went north to Bay of Islands. We heard a radio call but
thought it was from Lomaloma on the other side of the main island. We couldn’t see a village. It was
from Daliconi to our East behind an island. They own Bay of Islands and we were supposed to have
checked in there first and had sevusevu and got a permit, $25 Fiji each person for 30 days anchoring.
It was still well worth it. This village is not named on the chart. We went back 4 days later after
Bay of Islands visit to pay. I told them I would spread the word so they wouldn’t have to send a boat
out to each cruiser to tell them about the permit.
DON’T LET THIS DETER YOU! Bay of Islands was one of our favorite places in all Pacific!!! It was a
playground and we were all alone. We were the 3rd boat in Daliconi Village this year after last year
when they had 22 boats by this time.
Our first anchorage in Bay of Islands was the 10 meter deep cove on Calders we called Chuncky Rock Cove.
We stayed 3 nights exploring all kinds of hidden nooks and coves in our kayak and snorking mostly on
shelves due to the depths.
Anc in 22’ close to steep S wall in OK holding WP: 17deg 10.876S 179deg 01.334W
For our 4th day we anchored in Ship Sound. The passage there was exactly as Calders says
with good visibility. The best snorkeling was on a large head between Ship Sound and the
larger bay north, right in the middle. Apparently mid pass has the most nutritious location
for sealife with the water flow. We saw loads of huge fruit bats roosting and flying around.
Ship Sound anchorage in 25’ good holding WP: 17deg 10.049S 179deg 00.918W
Passage through the Reef
Mid-pass WP: 17deg 13.550S 179deg 00.805W
Pt on NW reef where other Beacon should be WP: 17deg 13.456S 179deg 01.035W
SW shoally side to avoid WP: 17deg 13.621S 179deg 01.229W
Daliconi Village WP: 17deg 13.140S 178deg 57.400W
Anc in 28-34’ good but rocky holding WP: 17deg 13.175S 178deg 57.983W
S of Vanuahaloa Isl WP: 17deg 13.243S 178deg 59.722W
Our 5th day we anchored at the village getting our permit and had dinner with a family there.
For anchoring in Banavu Harbor, we would recommend the eastern anchorage instead of the southern one
due to lack of breeze and a few bugs. We do want to mention that behind the small island at the south, is a
nice set of coral heads to snorkel at mid-tide.
Cove anchorage WP: 17deg 09.839S 179deg 02.094W
There were 3 markers for this pass on the charts but we only found one at the inside and it was bent
over, a white top just barely visible at high tide.
Approach, lining up range markers WP: 17deg 09.502S 179deg 02.948W
The last waypoint is a line up point to enter this pass if coming from the rest of Fiji and the range
markers are very evident. We had no problem but we were at full tide in the morning with some overcast
and didn’t see the southern reef as well as well as we saw the waves on the reef on the northern side.
As a summary, our visit to the Lau Group was one of the best sailing experiences we have ever had and
we would encourage cruisers to make this a part of their Fiji visit.
Bavatu Harbour
This is one of the most beautiful anchorages and quite an interesting location. After anchoring way back,
right between the small island at the south of the large cove with the cliffs to the west, we
came ashore at the boat landing and found the longest and most well built wooden staircase we’d ever seen.
This must have been 15 stories high! At the top there is a large coconut plantation covering
most of the eastern side. Tony owns the plantation and he gave us a letter of introduction that we presented
to Fane, who is his plantation manager. We left gifts for the villagers and bought 4 amazing lobsters for $50
from Fane’s husband so he could get a new diving mask and spear fish on the reef for his village.
To prepare to leave by Qilaqila Pass and wait for the right weather, we moved to the larger U shaped cove
behind the innermost range marker. We set the anchor right in the middle between the big rock on the north
of the eastern cut and the center island. The current took us over towards the island and out of the bumps
of the waves. It was plenty deep right up to the steep rocks and we enjoyed spending
several days waiting for weather to leave. We found the best snorkeling right at the eastern cut
at mid-tide and at a tiny beach beyond. Saw beautiful fish and interesting formations.
Info on leaving and entering by Qilaqila Pass
Mid-pass Waypoint WP: 17deg 09.361S 179deg 03.384W
Clear, at end of pass WP: 17deg 09.228S 179deg 03.908W
![]() Aqua water cove |
![]() Cyan at anc |
![]() Wahoo for dinner |
![]() Clear view |
![]() Coral right from dinghy |
![]() Coralheads |
![]() Exploring |
![]() Islet cut away |
![]() Driving around |
![]() Bavatu Harvour |
![]() Yum! Lobster! |
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