Even when we use the engine we still hoist the mainsail because it stabilizes the ride and we move with the sea a bit more. But it still often felt like a Tilt-a-whirl on a roller coaster!!! Even in all this, I did make a point to go down to the galley and cook chili on the propane stove just to see if I could. After all, there will be times in future trips when we will be doing this for weeks and we can't live on Slimfast bars all the time!

I have a strap attached to the stove that braces me and metal arms that hold the pot in place on the gas burner. It all worked out quite well but after being below and smelling the chili I just couldn't eat any so it was saltines for me until the stomach settled. I only ever get "queasey" down below in the cabin in rough seas and not in the cockpit, yet, anyway!

Finally, at dark, I had the first watch. I was getting a bit tired of the work at this bumpy sea and so I asked God...literally, quietly to myself..."OK, Lord, we can take these seas and we can take this 20 knot wind [with gusts to 30] but could you please move the wind over a tiny bit so we can hoist the sails and ride a little smoother?" I thought it was worth a try!

Then it was Chuck's watch, and he woke up. LO and BEHOLD...within 10 minutes the wind gently moved to the west and stayed there steady for a good 10 hours! Perhaps I should save these prayers for really bad weather but....

AMAZING!!! We hoisted the jib and the staysail and the sailing was wonderful south of Cape Fear and Frying Pan Shoals, a shallow area extending 30 miles or so out into the ocean east of NC. We were actually sailing about 30-35 miles offshore and often out into the edge of the Gulf Stream. We could tell that from the change in the temperature of the sea and that's why the sea was so lumpy and bumpy [very technical nautical talk here]!

We enjoyed this sail all night and until midday thursday and it's a good thing because our wonderful wind completely died when we arrived east of Myrtle Beach, SC and, there, 25 miles out, the ocean became a sheet of glass. The stillness was disturbed when we were passed by a huge school of about 100 dolphins jumping all around in this period after dusk....I could just see tags and numbers on some of the fins.....they were jumping by 3's and 4's all around the boat....we didn't see another boat of any kind the whole time [until Charleston area] so I guess we were the only one to visit.

The horizon was not foggy but rather a warm mist. At nightfall, we could see the stars well and also see them perfectly reflected on the flat, dark sea but we couldn't see the horizon, where the sea meets the sky. It was a blur and it felt surreal; like being suspended in a sphere of stars and sea. Then it was very dark and we saw so much phosphorescence in the water that it was like a Marde Gras parade had just gone by, until the full moon rose and gave us a bright evening to motor slowly along.

We had made such good time sailing and we couldn't arrive too early at the busy harbor at Charleston so we needed to take our time and it was hard to stay awake during our 3 hour watches. Fortunately, we brought books on tape for entertainment and that helped. As we approached Charleston about 5am friday there were 4 huge ships anchored about 10 miles offshore preparing to approach in the channel at daybreak and they were very brightly lighted. I sure hoped they could see our little boat!!! Eventually we chugged into the City Marina, docked, took a sound 2 hour nap and scrubbed the boat.